Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Saturday, 18 April 2015

Sancerre landscape from above Amigny: 13th April 2015


 Village of Amigny in middle ground, Sancerre right top 

 Sancerre town in top centre
(above and below)


 Vineyards between Verdigny and Saint-Satur

 Village of Verdigny just visible above trees left top




Friday, 17 April 2015

20ème édition des Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin: 18th & 19th April

Prize presentation 2011

Press release:
Ce dimanche 19 avril, au Théâtre de Saumur, écrivains, vignerons, et amis des livres et du vin se rassembleront pour célébrer la 20ème édition des Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin.

Créées en 1996, les Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin sont, depuis leur origine, dédiées à l'acteur Jean Carmet qui a permis d'en initier l'idée.

Pour la cinquième année consécutive, les vignerons de Bourgueil auront le plaisir de décerner le "Prix Jean-Carmet des Vignerons de Bourgueil" à un ouvrage consacré à la gastronomie et aux plaisirs gourmands.

Surtout, nous aurons le plaisir d'accueillir Gérard Depardieu, le grand complice de Jean Carmet, avec lequel nous évoquerons, autour d'un verre, le souvenir de l'enfant de Bourgueil.
 
Provisional programme:
Samedi 18 avril
Les Avant-propos 15h à 18h30
De 15h à 17h30 - Théâtre de Saumur
Table ronde « Tirer la couverture à soi » avec Maxime
Chattam, Guillaume Musso, R.J. Ellory, François Verdoux,
Fabrice Colin, Rémi Pépin et Jacques Expert, animation par
Philippe Lefait, suivie d’une séance de signatures.
De 18h à 18h45 - Brasserie « Le 7 »
Impromptu musical par Vassilis Varvaresos (piano) et
Valentina Gasparini (violon).
 
Dimanche 19 avril
Le Salon du Livre et du Vin 13h15 à 19h
Théâtre de Saumur
• Ouverture au public.
• Remise des 7 Prix Littéraires 2015 (13h30) :
- Prix Jean-Claude Brialy de la Ville de Saumur : Décerné à un
premier roman.
- Prix Hervé Bazin du Conseil Général de Maine-et-Loire :
Décerné au récit d’une vie.
- Prix Jean Carmet des Vignerons de Bourgueil : Ouvrage
original consacré à la gastronomie et aux plaisirs
gourmands.
- Prix Renault Antoine Blondin : Ecrit ou ouvrage original sur le
sport.
- Prix Claude Chabrol : Polar adaptable au cinéma.
- Prix Omar Khayyâm : OEuvre exaltant l’ivresse poétique
sous toutes ses formes.
- Prix Patrick Poivre d’Arvor des Vins de Saumur : Décerné au
meilleur journaliste-écrivain de l’année.
• Rencontre des auteurs avec le public (dédicaces)
• Dégustations publiques des Médailles d’Or de la Loire et
des Vins de Bourgueil chers à Jean Carmet.
• Distillation exceptionnelle d’Absinthe chez Combier
(Centenaire de l’interdiction de l’Absinthe).
• Expositions « Instants complices, portraits d’écrivains » par
Gérald Angibaud et « Monsieur Roger et le monde perdu »
par Guillaume Ledoux.
• Dégustations de produits gourmands.

Table ronde
De 15h à 16h - Théâtre de Saumur
• « De la réalité à la fiction » avec Maxime Chattam, Bernard
Werber, Jacques Expert, Olivier Norek, Laurent Guillaume,
Jean-Marc Bloch, animation par Philippe Lefait.

Cafés littéraires
• « L’univers Chabrolien » avec Aurore Chabrol, Cécile Maistre,
Jackie Berroyer et Jean-Luc Seigle, lauréat du Prix Chabrol
2015, animation par Arnaud Hofmarcher.
• « 50 ans de télé » avec Hervé Bourges et Patrick Poivre d’Arvor.
• « Ivres mortes, l’ivresse au féminin » avec la lauréate du Prix
de la Closerie des Lilas, Emmanuelle de Boisson et Sophie
Loubière, animation par Jessica Nelson.
• « Le Code d’Esther », polar historique par le journaliste Bernard
Benyamin avec Ivan Levaï.
• « Juste une fois » d’Alexandre Jardin, animation par Antoine
Boussin.

L’ivresse littéraire sur l’eau
16h - Bateau «Saumur Loire»
• « Le dictionnaire amoureux de la Loire » par Danièle Sallenave,
animé par Antoine Boussin.
17h
• Lectures par l’artiste-interprète Jérémy Kapone

Dégustations commentées
De 14h45 à 16h45 - Chapelle Saint-Jean
• Dégustations commentées des vins prix d’excellence de
la Loire et des Grands Vins de Saumur et leurs meilleurs
accords avec la gastronomie par Bruno Quenioux (Philovino),
Jacques Puisais (ex-président mondial des oenologues) et
Philippe Faure-Brac (meilleur sommelier du monde)

Impromptus musicaux
17h30 - Brasserie « Le 7 »
• Impromptu musical par le pianiste Vassilis Varvaresos.
17h45 - Brasserie « La Bourse »
• Impromptu musical : Bach et Ysaÿe par la violoniste Valentina
Gasparini.

Thursday, 16 April 2015

Vouvray – Tanguy Perrault and Anne-Cécile Jadaud: Domaine Perrault-Jadaud



The house at Chançay with the cave set into the hillside
 

In the cellar  

Anne-Cécile and Tanguy in their vineyard by Le Clos du Bourg, Vouvray. 
 Anne-Cécile and Tanguy in their vineyard 
by Le Clos du Bourg, Vouvray.

I was very pleased to discover a new Vouvray producer at the VinaViva tasting at Saint Etienne de Chigny a little to the west of Tours. I certainly can’t claim to be anything like the first to taste the wines of Tanguy Perrault and Anne-Cécile Jadaud as their first vintage was in 2008.

It is always good to find new producers who are making exciting wines and, in particular, in Vouvray. Particularly exciting in Vouvray as it has been less dynamic than its smaller but closely related cousin – Montlouis – on the south side of the Loire. Although Montlouis is substantially smaller than Vouvray over the past 30 years it has been much more dynamic and attracted a host of impressive newcomers. A major factor here has been the difference in the vineyard prices between the two appellations making Vouvray both much more unaffordable than Montlouis and so more difficult to find suitable vineyards to buy.

Nevertheless Tanguy Perrault and Anne-Cécile Jadaud, who had no background in wine, started out on their adventure in Vouvray in 2008 with just 0.8 hectares making a PetNat and a little moelleux. 2009 was really their first vintage when the domaine had grown to all of a hectare. Gradually they built up their domaine until they now have 4.2 hectares with Tanguy keen to acquire more if possible. Tanguy and Anne-Cécile have around 15 small parcels, which makes it complicated to work but, on the other hand, does spread the risk from hail and frost. 

They are fortunate in having some parcels on the premières côtes both in Vouvray itself and further east in Noizay. One of their parcels in Vouvray is right by the Clos du Bourg. In 2011 they moved into their present premises in Chançay. 
 
One of their parcels is a rented steeply terraced vineyard at Domaine des Bidaudières, an upmarket chambres d'hôtes in the commune of Vouvray. These vines used to be farmed by their friend and mentor Vincent Carême. As Vincent now has some 15-hectares of vines, this parcel takes too much time to cultivate so he has passed it onto Tanguy and Anne-Cécile. Carême plays an important role in appellation by encouraging new and young producers          


 The well exposed vineyard facing the Loire

Tanguy, who hails from Brittany, is a trained viticulturist, while Anne-Cécile, whose parents live in Tours is an oenologist. Both have taught at the Lycée Agricole d’Amboise.

They farm organically and their wines are impressively pure from low yields.  They use a range of barrels – classic barriques (225 litres) for their PetNat and mainly 300 litre barrels for their still wines, which are preferably to 400-litre ones which are heavy to manoeuvre. Some of their barrels were bought from Henri Bourgeois and Anne-Cécile was full of praise for the very professional way the transaction was carried out. Jean-Christophe Bourgeois showed them all the barrels, which were still full of wine, and they could taste the wines so that they could select barrels, whose characteristics they thought would suit their wines best. 

 Henri Bourgeois – Chavignol en Vouvray!

 
maturing PetNat 

Although they try to use as little sulphur as possible, they feel that their wines need a little bit of protection so they are not part of the non-SO2 brigade. A third of their production is sold direct from the domaine, a third to cavistes/restaurants and a third is exported.

When I tasted their wines both at VinaViva and when I went to visit them last week, I was very impressed with their Vouvray PetNat which spends 24 months sur latte giving it the complex, honeyed and toasty aromas and flavours. Equally impressive is the 2013 Les Grives Soûles Vouvray Sec – brilliantly precise, clean and long. Anne-Cécile explains that Grives-Soûles doesn’t mean drunken thrushes, rather thrushes wonderfully replete after plenty of corn to ready them for their migratory journey south at the end of the summer.

Parcel by Le Clos du Bourg 
Their parcel adjacent to the Clos du Bourg

Rare wild tulips in the nearby Le Haut-Lieu parcel    

The very good Haut les Choeurs PetNat   

 2013 Les Grives Soûles, Vouvray Sec

A shorter version of this post first appeared on Les 5 du Vin on 14.4.2015











Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Champagne Jayne: the last day of battle – Monday 13th April 2015


Pierre Taittinger and Jayne Powell  

Jayne Powell (Champagne Jayne) v CIVC  

On Monday 13th April the respective legal teams set out their concluding arguments. As before I am indebted to Graeme Lofts for his report on the proceedings. On this final day Jayne was represented by a new legal team: Natalie Hickey and Evelyn Tadros, who Graeme and his wife, Dianne, felt were very effective. 

The case has now been adjourned while the Judge –
Justice Jonathon Beach – makes his decision. I understand that this could take anything from six weeks to a year. 

Of course everything hinges on Justice Beach's decision but there seems to be grounds for cautious optimism that Champagne's pursuit of Jayne Powell might just be a case too far for the CIVC. 

••   

Graeme Lofts' report:


Federal Court of Australia, Melbourne, Monday April 13, 2015

'The battle between the Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne (the CIVC) and Australian wine educator and media personality  Rachel Jayne Powell, better known as Champagne Jayne resumed in the Federal Court of Australia, Melbourne on Monday April 13 with the presentation of closing submissions by lawyers for both sides. Ms Powell’s new team of barristers, Natalie Hickey and Evelyn Tadros, argued that the CIVC had failed to provide sufficient evidence that Champagne Jayne had engaged in misleading or deceptive conduct by mentioning sparkling wines other than Champagne in her presentations. No new evidence was admitted and much of the day’s proceedings consisted of references to previous cases and legalese. 

On several occasions the judge, Justice Jonathon Beach, admitted that he could see nothing wrong with the use of the name Champagne Jayne. He believed that the question to be answered was whether or not Ms Powell  had mislead, deceived or confused her audiences – whether at functions or on television, her website or on social media such as Twitter. A lot of the argument from both sides centred on who the audience was and what proportion already understood that sparkling wine could only be called Champagne if it comes from the Champagne appellation of France.

The CICV’s search for incriminating tweets amongst thousands of tweets on Jayne’s Twitter account was questioned by her barrister Natalie Hickey and she explained how Twitter worked and argued that it was a conversational medium in which comments were made in an instant and any individual tweet was almost always fleeting. She explained that it was impossible to gauge the wine knowledge of Jayne’s Twitter followers and the use of a few isolated tweets out of thousands was not evidence of misleading conduct.

Ms Hickey also argued that the segments of videotapes of Jayne’s presentations by the CIVC’s legal team to demonstrate misleading conduct were carefully selected and only partially represented the presentations and a videotape of a whole presentation would show that Champagne Jayne had clearly distinguished between Champagne and other sparkling wines.

The judge has adjourned the case and in due course will advise both parties of his decision. It is understood that his decision may not be reached for several months.'